REVIEW: A quality return for Millhouses

In her absence, the venue passed through several pairs of hands, and some customers did not seem to appreciate the lack of consistency. “All the locals were saying ‘please take it back’ ”, said Kaye, who has now taken on the lease and made the pub a family affair, with help from her sister Lisa as accountant, and her daughter behind the bar. “They said the food wasn’t fresh any more, it wasn’t the same. “So I came back nine weeks ago and every week it’s getting better, it is brilliant. “The locals are coming back saying the lillies are on the bar, so they can tell I’m back, the staff are all smiling and the food is all locally sourced.” Provenance is something that the new team take seriously - not often the case at community watering holes. The gastro pub menu proudly hails its suppliers - JH Mann in Sharrow Vale for fish, Roses bakery nearby for bread - and meat comes from Pat O’Brien in Banner Cross. Kaye is in talks to secure more independents. “I think it is important to support local businesses”, she said. “Local businesses are closing down and it only takes something like this support to keep them alive. “All our food is fresh and locally sourced, we do lots of training with staff as well such as wine tasting. “The menu will be seasonal, we want to listen to the customers and when it comes to vegetarian options some people have said they don’t want what we had on the menu but if they give us a call the day before we can make them anything they want, as long as we know.” In the old days the pub was well known for being the local haunt of Sheffield golden girl Jessica Ennis-Hill. And the star connections don’t end there. Kaye used to work for Sheffield United, and former striker Danny Webber has popped in with a pair of signed football boots for an auction in aid of pub cause St Luke’s Hospice. So too has the actor Shaun Williamson, who stayed nearby while appearing in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang at the Lyceum. As of yet there’s been so sign of Rio Olympics hopeful Jess, but will she make an appearance? “I think so”, said Kaye. “Maybe when she gets back!” We hadn’t eaten at The Millhouses before, but wanted to put the 48-place recent jump up TripAdvisor’s listings, and online praise, to the test. Inside the decor is akin to that of a modern hotel, pastel and patterned wallpaper, decent chairs, and a big open bar with heaps of those gorgeous lillies. A bright and cheery waitress explained the specials - including soup of the day and fresh oysters, apparently quite the hit with prosecco-supping crowds at weekends. After a tussle I claimed the smoked salmon and crayfish cocktail for starters. There were peachy chunks of seafood and plenty of succulent, sweet salmon packed into the bowl. Slices of delicous, nutty brown bread soaked up the mildly spiced Bloody Mary sauce and butter. This was a simple dish, easy to get wrong, but so right with the highest quality ingredients. His crab cakes were more like piping hot balls, with a crispy light outer shell encasing soft, spicy and well seasoned crab. There was a sticky, sweet chilli jam too. We’d both regretted not ordering oysters, and so requested one. They arrived just after the mains, served on ice, draped with watercress and garnishes to the side - incredibly fresh and an unusual palate cleanser. Cod loin wrapped in pancetta was a dish to behold- a beautiful tower of food topped with more watercress. The chunky slab of cod was the star of the show, it didn’t need the pancetta to shine, being so succulent and moist. Saffron had given a light colouring to the well seasoned buttery mash, and there was plenty more going on with a tomato salsa and fine green beans. Every mouthful hit the tastebuds just right. Across the table his Millhouses pie was more deconstructed than expected, with chunks of meat between sheets of open pastry. There was little sign of the promised bacon or mushrooms, although plenty of thyme sprigs. But the meat was tasty with a real ale gravy and proper, fat, golden chips. Desserts were a flawless, creamy lemon posset - not too sweet, not too sharp - and the everyman’s pudding of chocolate brownie. “It’s everything I want in a brownie”, he said, devouring the rich square and vanilla pod ice cream in seconds.Three courses served and eaten in just over one hour. Although this is an affluent area there’s also an early bird option at £15 for two courses, interesting-sounding sandwiches as well as lunch deals, and monthly bistro nights. It’s everything you want from a local pub - so like Kaye, we will be back. The bill was £55.45, including soft drinks. The Millhouses, 951 Abbeydale Road. Tel: 01142 36596